Description: 2004 Honda CR250R Engine. A. Came out of running 04 CR250R. Now, these motors will work despite the fact that an 04 wiring harness has an extra plug in for the throttle position sensor. This motor will plug into an 02 or 03 wiring harness. THE TRICK IS THAT YOU WILL NEED TO SWAP OUT THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD OTHERWISE THE 02 or 03 pipe will not fit because an 04 used a shorter exhaust manifold. B. The first thing I do on these is drain the oil and basically strain it to make sure nothing abnormal comes out of it. I also run a magnet over the strainer to check for metal. C. Then I took off the cylinder and head off and sent it to Eric Gorr for one of his 265cc kits. This way I know the cylinder is nice and round with a fresh cross hatch for oil retention. Eric bores it to accept a 68.5 mm Wiseco piston. He replates them. Then he does a little cylinder base machining to raise the port timing a little. Then he reshapes the squish dome for better fuel burn. This is one of Eric’s last ones that he has done with his own hands. He inscribed “Eric Gorr 12-23” on the back of the cylinder. This one is set up to build more power everywhere or “More Betta.” It’s set up to run on pump gas. If you’ve never owned one the first thing you notice is that you don’t have to rev your motor as much to get it rolling. Then, the power delivery is more linear. Finally they really do a nice job of revving out. Even though the cylinder is freshly bored and plated I still wipe these with microfiber until the cloth comes out clean. As far as break in goes, Eric will tell you to just run it but don't go crazy at first. I'm no Eric Gorr but you might run slightly richer jetting than what you'd normally run for the first tank of fuel. Also, if you really want a new crank, just reach out to me. We can work something out that will be reasonable for you. D. He also mods the power valves or RC Valve to make room for the larger piston. So, this motor has all the power valve stuff in there to where all you have to do is hook up your cables. The butterfly shaped cable guide is new BUT IS NOT TIGHT BECAUSE I FIGURED YOU WOULD WANT TO REMOVE THE CABLE GUIDE TO HOOK UP THE CABLES. Now, if you have never set an RC valve, I recommend Brian Mobley’s You Tube video called “Demystifying the Honda RC Valve.” It is excellent and Brian is a super talented guy. You will notice that Eric put some epoxy around the pin that stops the motion of the RC valve. To me, if Eric put epoxy around that pin, that’s good enough for me. E. Piston- Wiseco Pro Lite double ring. It has been drilled where the piston is in close proximity to the exhaust bridge. The wrist pin and wrist pin bearing are new. The piston circlips were installed where the gap is farthest away from the detent in the piston where you go to remove them. The ring end gap is correct too. F. The reed valves are brand new V Force 3s. G. I also replaced the ignition side crank shaft seal. H. I always go with a fresh bore, fresh plating, fresh cross hatch, fresh reeds and a fresh ignition side crank seal. This way when you are jetting, you are truly changing jetting and not fighting a leak somewhere. When jetting, I always recommend checking the float height first. I’ve seen too many guys going through a ton of brass trying to chase erratic jetting when starting with the right float height makes things incredibly easier. I. Another reason why I pull the cylinder and remove at least one crank seal is so that I can understand the crank. It has a Wiseco crank with a Wiseco rod in it that I determined was too good in terms of the big end bearing and crank bearings themselves to warrant a change. If I were going to keep this motor I’d run this crank, run no-ethanol gas and keep the filter clean and oiled. Now, I can’t tell you how tell you how hours there are on the crank, just that I would not hesitate to run it. If you keep the filter clean, they go along time. J. I also saw no reason to change the clutch basket or inner clutch hub. Now, after soaking new Tusk Heavy Duty clutch plates and new steel drive plates in Rotella for a week, I did obviously put those in. I also replaced the clutch springs with heavy duty units also from Tusk. A Ducati mechanic convinced me years ago to always replace those. I also replaced the clutch fasteners with new OEM ones from Honda. Those clutch fasteners live a miserable life by getting hot and slowly cooling off over and over to where they lose their temper. I’ve seen a million of these twist off at the hex head with 10 ft pounds of torque so I always invest $15 on new ones. H. The clutch cable is a brand new one from Motion Pro. I lubricated it so you don’t have to worry about removing the ignition cover and the cable to lube it. It’s already done. I. As you go around all of the fasteners they are all OEM. There are no cracks, welds, or JB weld anywhere. This includes the oil drain bolt which has a new aluminum crush washer. J. Now I will tell you this. If you mess around with these Gen 3 Honda motors you will encounter issues with the front two cylinder studs. These two studs have fewer threads than the other 4, and are prone to strip. The front two on these had helicoils as a “thread repair.” Helicoils DO NOT WORK. The studs require 9 Ft pounds of torque. A Helicoil will not even hold that. Then the cylinder head nuts require 20 Ft Pounds of torque. This is how I fix these. The OEM stud screws into the cylinder with an 8mm 125 threaded stud. The other side of the stud is also 8 mm x 125. Now, a CR500 stud is 10mm x 125 on the cylinder side and 8 mm x 125 on the other end. So I have a jig that I made that you bolt the cylinder to that holds the cylinder perfectly straight. Then, I drill the affected area with a sharp 11/32 drill bit. Then once I get the shavings out I start the 10mm x 125 tap by hand but chucked in the press. Once the tap is started perfectly straight I finish the rest of the tapping by hand. Then I cut 5mm off of the big end of the CR500 head stud and turn the shoulder down to match the shoulder on the CR250 head stud. Now I could not find but one zinc plated CR500 head stud. So one of the front studs is zinc coated and the other is black. Anyway, that is the best real fix I’ve used to take care of this problem. Needless to say, the 6 studs were installed with 9 pound feet of torque and the cylinder nuts are all torqued with 20 foot pounds in a crisscross pattern first with 10, then 15 then 20 pound feet of torque. Those are the only thread repairs on this motor and I venture to say that my two replacements are stronger than OEM. K. You will notice that the clutch cover has a high grip cover stuck to it. You don’t have to worry about it being a cover to hide a JB weld repair or anything. The inside of the clutch cover is perfect and the O ring is new. L. It comes with a new BR8EG plug, the kick starter, the shifter, the exhaust manifold with gasket and new rubber pipe seal. I will most likely have to remove and bag those items so it can all be packed in a new 48Qt Coleman ice chest. M. Break in- Eric says that you do not have to mess around with heat cycles on these. I would not go crazy at first but put it in, add oil, add coolant, hook up you power valves with Brian’s video, and run it. The oil drain plug is tight. The sprocket is torqued to service manual specs. I recommend cheap white jug Rotella 15w 40 from Walmart. The guys at Rekluse put me on that years ago because that oil does not contain all the friction modifiers. As to the two stroke, Castor 927, Motul 800 or Klotz R50 are all good. I like Klotz because it stains the gas so I can tell which fuel jug is premix. When you use the ever popular Castor 927 I can’t tell by looking at the jug whether it is premix or straight gas. 32 to 1 or 40 to one are my favorite ratios. N. There are boxes in the package that contained the new V Force reeds, the piston and the clutch. Inside of the clutch box are the miscellaneous stickers and the felt bag the Wiseco piston came with. So, you might look in those in case you want to keep that stuff. Free fedex shipping, in the Continental US. If you live in Hawaii, Puerto Rico or Alaska, or if you are international, please reach out to me so I can get you a quote. It will be reasonable. Thank you
Price: 2250 USD
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
End Time: 2024-12-25T17:01:31.000Z
Shipping Cost: N/A USD
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Returns Accepted: ReturnsNotAccepted
Brand: Honda
